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Saturday, 11 July 2015

The Skincare Guide: Ingredients to Avoid


Not all ingredients in products are actually good for our skin, so I thought I'd explain some of the big red flags in skincare that are for the most part best to avoid. I'll start off with the evilest and make my way down from there.

1) Sodium Laureth Sulfate & Sodium Lauryl Suflate or SLS for short: to put it point blank, this is a detergent. It's what creates the the foam and bubbles in foaming cleansers. It's also in shampoos, soaps, bubble bath, etc. Now needless to say if you've already read my Cleansing Properly post (you can read that here), you'll know why you should avoid this kind of ingredient." It's actually a well known skin irritant, to the point where it's used as model irritant in dermatological studies. 

“[Sodium lauryl sulfate] is such a consistent irritator for skin with an impaired barrier that it is actually used in ‘challenge patch tests’ to evaluate the barrier function of skin…it strips the natural lipids from the skin, disrupting the barrier and rendering it more susceptible to external irritants." -Dr. Leslie Baumann’s, Cosmetic Dermatology.

So my advice? Avoid this ingredient like the plague (at least for your skin, not your kitchen dishes :P). I'd highly suggest going SLS free in your shampoo and shower gel too if possible. I noticed a huge difference when I switched shampoos, specifically 50% less hair fallout and my hair was not as dry. If you want SLS free shampoo, I'd recommend Marc Anthony (if you're in Canada) and the L'oreal Professional Line internationally, they have a few good SLS free shampoos. And for body wash and/or hand soap - any soap/showergel from Dr. Bronner is a good one. 

2) Alcohol, Alcohol Denat, Isopropyl Alcohol, and Ethanol: this one is to be proceeded with caution. Rule of thumb: if it's in the top 10 ingredients on the ingredient list, avoid. If it's near the bottom of the ingredient list - there's very little of it in the formula, so it's fine. These are all drying alcohols. If  used in high concentration, they will dry out your skin. If there's not too much of it/ it's well formulated, it will aid in the absorption of skincare actives. 
Also, quick note: not all forms of alcohol are drying! There are also fatty alcohols, such as cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol. They are used to thicken formulas and add slip to the product and are harmless.

3) Mineral Oil (listed as/also known as - liquid paraffin, pariffinum liquidum, and liquid petroleum in ingredient lists): this is a very controversial ingredient in the skincare world right now. There are two sides to the argument: the first side says it's totally fine and does a good job at moisturizing the skin, whereas the other half says it just sits on top of the skin and clogs your pores. I'm on the latter side. I did an experiment where I went mineral oil free for a good few months, and my skin thanked me for it! I used to get little white heads on my cheeks, forehead, and nose, and when I gave up the ingredient they went away forever. Also reduced blackheads.

 Mineral oil works by coating the skin, rather than being absorbed. It's an incredibly cheap ingredient (so if it's in your super expensive moisturizer - you're being ripped off big time) that is derived from petroleum—as a by-product of the distillation of petroleum to produce gasoline.

That being said, some people don't break out from mineral oil and swear it does wonders for their dry skin. My advice? Try going mineral oil free for a good 2 months and see if you notice a difference. But overall, I would still say avoid.

4) Oxybenzone: I mentioned this already in my sunscreen/sunprotection post (here), but I'll just quickly repeat myself. It's a form of chemical sunscreen that is officially known as a hormone disruptor, avoid at all costs! Unfortunately, several well-known brands still use this ingredient.

If you have any questions on the safety of other ingredients that weren't mentioned, leave a comment down below! :)

Next time on the Skincare Guide: Korean Skincare

Thursday, 9 July 2015

The Skincare Guide: Serums

Honestly, I've been dreading writing this post. Mainly because it's probably one of the most complicated topics to explain, no doubt due to simply the vast variety you have when it comes to serums. So I will carry on and tread lightly...

So what are serums?

Serums are the superheroes in skincare. They're the ones that really throw in a punch. Or to put it in skincare terms, this is where all your active ingredients live. Because of this fact, it deems serums to be the one kind of product where you really do need to splash on and bite the bullet at the cash register. But I promise you, you will see results with them. Not necessarily overnight (though some of those do exist), but definitely over time. For every other kind of product in your routine, you can find a cheap alternative (e.g. cleansers, moisturizers) because they do easy, straightforward jobs, like clean and moisturize, which usually involve inexpensive ingredients that are easy to formulate and manufacture. Serums tend to involve a lot of research and testing, such as clinical studies.

Sadly, cheap serums are therefore hard to come by, but the powerful ingredients in them really do make them worth it. Now without further ado, let's get into the different kinds of serums.

1) Antioxidant/Vitamin C Serums

These ones are multi-purpose. Their functions are:

brightening - so fading acne scars and sun damage
anti-aging - vitamin c increases the production of collagen (= firmer skin) and cell turnover.
boosts your skin's defence against UV damage, as well as pollution
glow - will get rid of the appearance of dull skin

Needless to say, a good all-rounder! However, this serum is mainly used for fading acne scars and hyper pigmentation. Its anti-aging strength isn't the strongest one out there.

2) Anti-Aging/ Preventative Serums -& usually also known as night time serums

These ones work by repairing your skin and preventing aging. They usually contain vitamin A (the ultimate anti-aging ingredient), and are recommended to be used only at night because of this, since it makes your skin photosensitive aka more sensitive to the sun/light. So if you are using this kind of serum, be sure to wear sunscreen during the day if you aren't already (naughty!). A lot of these serums also contain antioxidants, sometimes Niacinamide (a form of vitamin B3 that is anti-aging, brightening, redness reducing, acne healing), and occasionally peptides (another famous anti-aging ingredient).

Functions:

prevent wrinkles
repair skin
lighten hyper pigmentation and/or marks left from spots & even-out skin tone
moisturize 

3) Hydrating Serums

I think this one is pretty self-explanatory... if you have dry skin or (yes there's a difference) dehydrated skin, which 99% of us have, then add yourself a boost of moisture with a hydrating serum. They really do make a difference!

My tips on serums if you're on a tight budget:

- spend less on your other skincare products (e.g. cleanser, moisturizer). There are many good, cheap alternatives.
- if available, buy mini's. Not all brands do them, but quite a few in Sephora do mini starter kits, such as Ole Henriksen.
- try out serums by korean brands, they are years ahead of western companies in terms of science and usually half the price due to fierce competition and vast amount of brands. A good brand to start off with is Missha.
- take note of how much you're actually getting from the product, as in the quantity, e.g. 15ml, 30ml, 50ml, 75ml etc. Sometimes it may seem expensive but then when you compare how much more you're getting with that price compared to other serums/brands, it may turn out to be cheaper.
Example: the Missha Time Revolution serum (a known dupe for the Estee Lauder serum) is $50/50ml, whereas Estee Lauder's is $62/30ml. So Missha's is $1 per ml, and EL's is roughly $2 per ml. So with Missha, you're getting more for your money.

*takes deep calming breath*...finally on to some recommendations! (all recommendations are linked)

Antioxidant Serums: 


Side note: this serum is very effective, but could be drying to some due to it's alcohol content (which is used in some formulations to allow the serum to be absorbed better and faster). If so, use every other day rather than daily, or use a hydrating serum afterwards.


Anti-Aging Serums: 





Hydrating Serums: 



Next time on the Skincare Guide: Ingredients to Avoid

Sunday, 5 July 2015

The Skincare Guide: Toners

This topic tends to have a bad rep when it comes to skincare. That's mainly down to how western companies have labelled and marketed toners. 

According to western companies, toners are there to remove the last remains of your makeup (*cough* that's your cleanser's job, and if it's not doing the job, then you need a new cleanser *cough*), kill bacteria with an incredibly high alcohol content *cringe*, and shrink your pores.

Ok, now let me explain what your toner actually SHOULD be doing. 

1) Exfoliate: I would go as far as to say that this is the main purpose of a toner. These days, thanks to the beloved Caroline Hirons, they are now usually referred to as Acid Toners. Toners use a percentage of an acid to chemically exfoliate your skin. Think of it as your toner eating up all the dead skin cells, leaving fresh new skin. This is a far superior method of exfoliation, especially when compared to physical exfoliation (aka scrubs). Scrubs are 90% of the time too harsh for our skin, and even has the capabilities of irritating it and giving us broken capillaries. 

There are 2 kinds of chemical exfoliant toners: AHA's (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) and BHA's (beta hydroxy acid). The most common types of AHA's are Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, and Citric Acid, and for BHA's it's Salicylic Acid. BHA's are generally preferred for people with problematic skin, and AHA's for people with sun damage and dry skin. However, they both work similarly and don't differ significantly. They both do the same job. Personally, I like and use both. Though I ever so slightly prefer AHA. However, some people with sensitive skin sometimes find that AHA's can be too harsh for their skin, so if you're one of them then just stick to BHA's. 

Perks of using a chemical exfoliant toner: prevents and helps clear up break outs, helps other products (like serums) penetrate better, quickens the rate of cell turnover, decreases fine lines, and potentially stimulates collagen production.

2) Hydrate: ironic since your old school toners are notorious for drying out your skin. There are also now toners that add some moisture to your skin, as well as balance the ph level.

The number one thing to avoid when looking for a new toner: alcohol or alcohol denat. Old school toners are incredibly high in alcohol, usually even the second ingredient on the list. Now, would you apply Vodka or Rubbing Alcohol all over your face? No?? Then don't use these kind of toners!! A famous example of these kind of horrible products would be Clinique's Clarifying Lotion (step #2 in their well-known 3 step system). Products like these WILL ruin your skin. If your skin is feeling tight and dry after using it, or even burning, that does not mean it's working! That means it's harming your skin. Case closed.


And if you use these kind of toners because you have oily skin, and you like them because they remove all oils from your face, you're essentially just fighting fire with fire. Constantly stripping all oils from your face will only drive your skin into overdrive as it tries extra hard to reproduce those oils that you just stripped, i.e. your skin will only become oilier in the long-run. 

Now that we've cleared that all up, here are some product recommendations! all recommendations are linked.


2) Clinique Mild Clarifying Lotion ($16), Side Note: though it's by Clinique, this toner of theirs is 100% alcohol-free! it's a very mild BHA toner.

3) First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance Pads ($20 for mini, $30 for full size), AHA toner.


Next time on the Skincare Guide: Serums

Friday, 3 July 2015

The Skincare Guide: Cleansing Properly




To follow up with yesterday's post on sunscreen, I thought naturally the next guide would have to be on cleansing, specifically cleansing properly. A lot of people tend to complain that sunscreen and occasionally makeup breaks them out. However, most of the time it's actually the fact that they weren't removing it properly that broke them out. So let me introduce you to your new best friend: double cleansing.

That's right. You should be cleansing twice, not just once. The first time to remove makeup & sunscreen, and the second time to actually cleanse the skin itself. I promise, you will notice a huge difference in your skin once you implement this method.

There are two exceptions for when you don't need to double cleanse: mornings and days when you don't wear any makeup and/or sunscreen. Now, before we move on to what kind of cleansers you should be using, let's first quickly go over what you shouldn't be using.

The no-no's when it comes to cleansing your face: face wipes and foaming cleansers. The ingredients in face wipes are really not something you want to be putting on your face. They're drying and all you do is move around the dirt on your face with it. I know they seem like the best option for lazy evenings, but do your skin a favour: get off the couch and go cleanse it properly!

Foaming cleansers are the ultimate nightmare for your skin. They work by stripping your skin completely, including the natural oils that actually protect your skin, and thus leave it feeling like a desert. They also really mess with your skin's ph levels, which will in turn make your other products work inefficiently, as well as make your skin very sensitive. Your skin is not meant to feel squeaky clean and tight after you cleanse, or so dry that you bolt for your moisturizer. Funny enough, you don't actually end up squeaky clean because foaming cleansers use a surfactant which turns your skin into alkaline and alkaline skin is a magnet for bacteria. Oh the irony... 
If anything, a good cleanser should make your skin feel nourished. So if you ever come across a cleanser that says foaming, drop the product and run. I mean, you wouldn't use a bar of soap on your face right? Well, then same goes for foaming cleansers.

Now, on to the right sort of cleansers: oil, balm, and milk. Nothing breaks down makeup (especially waterproof) and sunscreen better than oils. Seriously, there's a reason why stage actors will use things like olive oil to remove their heavy costume makeup. It works! They also do an amazing job of picking up dirt and thus make it easier to wash it off. And the best part: they leave your skin feeling softer and moisturized, rather than stripped. And don't worry, oil cleansers are suitable for ALL skin types, INCLUDING oily/combination (which I happen to be). 

- (all recommendations are linked. $ stands for cheap, $$ stands for very affordable, $$$ stands for pricy, $$$$ stands for expensive)

So let's wrap things up with a few recommendations. For your 1st cleanse (i.e. for removing makeup & SPF): The Body Shop Camomile Cleansing Oil ($), Clinique Take the Day Off Cleansing Oil (or balm if you prefer)($$), Ole Henriksen Melting Cleanser ($$$), Oskia Renaissance Cleansing Gel ($$$),  Emma Hardie Cleansing Balm ($$$$)



Next time on the Skincare Guide: Toners

Wednesday, 1 July 2015

The Skincare Guide: How to Find the Perfect Sunscreen

Sun protection - a much more complicated subject than most realize. To the point that this post ended up being much longer than I had intended. Due to the vast amount of factors to consider when looking for a sunscreen, I will try my best to break it down for you by answering some questions. 

Question #1: Why do I need to wear sunscreen?


Answer: whenever I get this question, my mind instantly rushes to this image. This was all I needed to motivate me to wear sunscreen everyday. This is the image of a 69 year old male truck driver. As you may have realized, drivers are generally exposed to the sun mainly on one side. Can you guess which one from this picture? The difference here is insane, in my opinion. This is what UVA rays do to your skin, which by the way, windows do not block out...

Question #2: Do I need to wear sunscreen everyday? 

Answer: yes. Regardless of the weather, season (UVA rays are constant year round, clouds or no clouds), or whether you're indoors or not (unless your house has no windows :P). Of course, if you're not going to be sitting in front of a window for most of your day then you can go without it. However, there's no exception if you are going outside.


Question #3: What's the difference between UVB and UVA rays?

Answer: in simplest terms, UVB rays are what burn you and UVA rays are what age you. Both are equally capable of causing skin cancer. UVB rays burn the skin surface, whereas UVA rays penetrate very deep into the dermis (the thickest layer of your skin), so you don't really see the damage immediately like you do with UVB. However, sun exposure accounts for 80% of premature aging. So it's a big deal!

Question #4: What does SPF stand for?

Answer: sun protection factor. But what most people don't know is that SPF is only in regards to protection against UVB rays, not UVA rays. UVA protection is symbolized by the symbol +. Lowest protection being + and highest ++++. So if your sunscreen or makeup, such as foundation, says it has an SPF 15 (which by the way is waaay too low), then it means it's only protecting you from UVB rays, not UVA. Generally, you want to aim for a protection of SPF 30 - 50, with at least +++.

Question #5: What ingredients should I look out for/want in my sunscreen?


Answer: believe it or not, some are more effective than others. There are also 2 different kinds: physical (also known as mineral) and chemical. Chemical works by absorbing the UV rays, while physical reflects the rays off the skin. Personally, I prefer physical because it's non-irritating (some people might be sensitive to chemical sunscreen), but I'd happily use chemical as well if it has decent protection. However, something to keep in mind: there are only 17 approved chemical ingredients in the US and Canada, and only about 7 of them are regularly used in products, whereas the European Union has 27 approved ingredients. So you will see a big difference in sun screen ranges between the EU and North America, with the EU having the better and bigger selection.
There are two forms of physical sunscreen: Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide. Titanium Dioxide blocks out all UVB rays, but only half of UVA rays, whereas Zinc Oxide blocks out both completely. So naturally, I would suggest finding a sunscreen that's high in Zinc Oxide. 

Question #6: What ingredients should I avoid in my sunscreen?

perfect example of a sunscreen to avoid (a La-Roche Posay sunscreen ingredients list)

Answer: Oxybenzone - a form of chemical sunscreen that is officially known as a hormone disruptor, avoid at all costs! Several well-known brands still use this ingredient, such as Neutrogenia

Alcohol: generally, alcohol is known for irritating and drying out your skin. If it's in the top 10 ingredients on the list, put down the product and walk away. Unfortunately, this is incredibly common in most sunscreens. If, however, it's at the very bottom of the list, then the amount in the formula is scarce and therefore perfectly fine to use. 

Alcohol Denat: same as alcohol. Avoid unless at the bottom of the list. 

Mineral Oil (usually listed as paraffinum liquidum): a cheap moisturizing ingredient known for clogging up pores. Yuck.

Question #7: Is tanning safe as long as I don't get a sunburn?

Answer: NOOOOO. There is no such thing as a safe tan!! Having a tan in itself is a sign of DNA damage in the skin. So you really have only two options then: either embrace your paleness or use fake tan. 

Question #8: Is the SPF in my makeup or moisturizer enough to protect me or should I always use a separate sunscreen? 

Answer: NOPE. 1) Putting makeup on top of a moisturizer with SPF reduces the effectiveness by half. 2)You don't put enough foundation on your face to protect your skin as you would with a separate sunscreen. Rule of thumb is to apply at least 1/4 of a teaspoon of sunscreen onto your face, so you do need to be liberal. And if you did apply that much foundation, my god! Imagine the cake face :P. Also foundations are designed to do the job of makeup, not skincare. 

Question #9: Are spray sunscreens safe to use?

Answer: this one bummed me out too (everybody loves the conveniency), but sadly they really do not provide you with much protection. You're simply not applying as much as you would with a lotion. Sprays actually give you a quarter of the protection of what they promise, so if you're applying an SPF 50 spray, then you're only really getting SPF 12. For further details, you can check out this post by Future Derm: https://www.futurederm.com/is-a-spray-sunscreen-really-as-effective-as-a-lotion/

Question #10: But I don't like the feel of sunscreen

Answer: obviously that's not so much a question but a phrase that is uttered very often. But don't fret, there's good news! There are plenty of companies with brilliantly formulated sunscreens that when applied, feel like luxurious moisturizers and even come with some nice skincare ingredients. There's no need to buy the icky heavy stuff anymore. Science and formulations have come a long way since our childhoods spent at the beach. You simply have to know which ones to get. Which leads us to....

Recommendations for Sunscreens: 

(all recommendations are linked. $ stands for cheap, $$ stands for very affordable, $$$ stands for pricy, $$$$ stands for expensive)


Sadly, I have only found one single decent sunscreen by a western company, but luckily for us Asia (especially Korea) produce brilliant sunscreens. 

And that wraps up the sun protection post! 
Next time on The Skincare Guide: Cleansing Properly

Tuesday, 30 June 2015

The Skincare Guide: Morning Routine

I know there are technically loads of blog posts on this very topic, but oddly enough, I've been getting many requests from close friends, asking me to break it down for them in my own words. So I've decided to upload a post every single day of this week, explaining all things skincare related, such as routines, ingredients, what to avoid, what to look for, product recommendations, etc. So let's get cracking!


Morning Routine

(steps from left to right)

1) Cleanse: after a night's sleep, gunk will have gathered up on your face (even if you can't see it). To name a few - sebum, dead skin cells, and sweat. So, naturally, it's best to wash it off before starting your day. Personally, I only use oil, balm, and milk cleansers. And if some product has the forbidden word "foaming" written on it, I run for the hills. Ain't nobody want stripped and irritated skin.


- (all recommendations are linked. $ stands for cheap, $$ stands for very affordable, $$$ stands for pricy, $$$$ stands for expensive)

2) Acid Tone: best form of non-physical exfoliation. They're gentler and more effective than any 'scrub'. Some benefits of using chemical exfoliation: prevents and helps clear up break outs, helps other products (like serums) penetrate better, quickens the rate of cell turnover, decrease fine lines, and potentially stimulates collagen production. Whereas as physical exfoliation (aka scrubs and beads) will more than likely just end up irritating your skin and give you broken capillaries.


3) Serum/Essence/Treatment: this is where your skin receives all the active ingredients. There are several different types of serums, not to much essences (more on that another time), and it all depends on what you want for you skin, e.g. anti-aging, evening out skin-tone/fading acne scars, reducing break outs, hydration, etc.

Recommendations: will be mentioned in a future post

4)Moisturizer: self-explanatory really. Your skin needs hydration, so moisturize it. Personally, I prefer to use mineral oil-free products (more on that in a future post).

Recommendations: will be mentioned in a future post

5) SPF: whenever people ask me for the best anti-aging product, I always reply with sunscreen. This tends to puzzle the heck out of them, most likely because they probably expected me to answer with some kind of amazing super-duper serum with mind-blowing anti-aging ingredients. However, 80% of skin aging is due to UVA exposure. Unlike UVB rays, UVA rays are constant/year round, regardless of season/weather.  So do your skin a favour, and put on some sunscreen!

Recommendations: will be mentioned in a future post


Next time on "The Skincare Guide": How to find the perfect sunscreen 
(side note: majority of recommended products are also available at Sephora). 

Sunday, 22 February 2015

Meet the new Vitamin C: Vitamin D


Anytime you have a cold, you're usually told two things: drink lots of fluid and consume lots of Vitamin C. Well, I'm sorry to burst your bubble, but one of those two have been proven to be virtually 100% ineffective.

Research has proven within the past few years that Vitamin C does not help boost the immune system in any shape or form. However, one Vitamin luckily does.

Allow me to introduce you to Vitamin D. Most people know this vitamin as a way of boosting your mood during the cold, depressing winter days. However, it does SO much more than that.

When I was young and still in high school, I was essentially known as the girl who pretty much always had a cold. I got sick constantly and binging on oranges never helped. However, that all changed when I began regularly taking Vitamin D. At first I only took it because I lived in rainy Vancouver and therefore was rather deficient and needed to supplement. Then after a while, I began to notice two things: 1) I couldn't remember the last time I had a cold, and whenever I did get sick, the symptoms were no longer as harsh and would only last a few days rather than 2 weeks of being bed ridden, and 2) My skin had never been so clear.

Once I did my research and got some advice from doctors, it turned out that Vitamin D helps balance out hormones, as well as give a massive boost to your immune system. Talk about a win-win! Sadly, very few people are aware of this. Therefore I am writing this blog post to try and help spread the word. The majority of doctors still recommend high doses of Vitamin C because they haven't read up on research in years, but if you're lucky, you'll come across a well-informed doctor who doesn't believe in this nonsense that was based on one study in the 60's...

I personally take 2,000 IU a day, and when I feel a cold coming on or am having proper PMS mood swings, then I take 3,000 IU a day. Before I use to take just 1,000 IU a day but then I had a doctor tell me I can take up to a maximum of 3,000 a day and that 2,000 IU made much more of a difference than just 1,000.

If you're someone who spends a lot of time indoors or you live in a very grey climate, or you're just sick of, well, being sick all the time, then I would highly recommend supplementing with Vitamin D. As always, do your research and first consult your doctor, especially on dosage. Be cautious and aware.

Now go ahead and share this blog post if you want to see the number of flu cases go down ;).